Malta and Gozo – small, but wow

Nowhere else has so many fortresses in such a small space, nowhere else in Europe has older prehistoric monuments. And there’s one more reason to visit: the Maltese focus on their hearty island cuisine.

It’s an incredible view, when you sweep your gaze from the Upper Barrakka Gardens and over the Grand Harbour. The view stretches from one grandiose fortress to the next, with yellow sandstone buildings towering over each other and mingled with baroque church cupolas in the capital city Valletta and the three cities of Senglea, Vittoriosa and Cospicua. And they’ve all been spruced up in recent years: they’re getting ready for 2018. Together, they will be European Capital of Culture. An almost fjord-like bay was the nucleus of the new Malta in the 16th century. Knights recognised its strategic value and fortified its shores. However, the history of the advanced civilizations who left clear traces behind them, such as the temple complexes at Hagar Qim and Mnajdra or the underground Hypogeum, goes back a further 5,000 years.

The eastern half of Malta is mainly urban and offers a striking contrast to the quiet west: charming villages nestle amidst sun-drenched farmland. Vineyards and olive groves surround the citadel of Mdina, once the political and religious centre of nobility for the knights of the Order of St John. The island drops into the sea with steep, dramatic cliffs. The 200 metre high Dingli Cliffs are particularly spectacular, and the ideal location for a hearty picnic! The best option is to go shopping at “Diar Il-Bniet”: crusty rustic bread, cheese, tomatoes, pickles, wine or Torta ohra tal-gurnata (Pie of the Day) – all produced locally. What is most satisfying is that in the most delightful little places, you can always find somewhere waiting to offer you slow food or traditional dishes. In the old town district of Valletta, for example, you will find the former “Nenu” bakery. What comes out of their wood-fired oven now has it all – Ftira! The toppings on this sourdough flatbread are as unpronounceable as they are delicate, such as Ta’ Gorg ir-Ragel with wafer-thin slices of potato, ricotta, bacon and beans. The creative kitchens of Donald Conti are tucked away in Birgu at “Tal Petut”. Must-try dishes include oven-baked rabbit with caramelised onions, topped with a sauce made of red wine, carob and syrup! Carob is a naturally sweet powder made from the dried fruits of the carob, or locust-bean, tree. In the picturesque fishing harbour of Marsaxlokk, the fresh catch is landed right outside the many restaurants on the promenade. One of these is “T’Anna Mari”, which specialises in Sicilian dishes. At “Jus Dine & Wine”, in a 400 year-old townhouse in the heart of Malta, the team headed by Cyrille Darras serves innovative Franco-Mediterranean cuisine.

According to legend, Odysseus on his wanderings was bewitched by the nymph Calypso. But where did it happen? Gozo. Malta’s sister island is still enticing today, with attractions such as the fine powder sand of Ramla Bay. On the way there, you pass the imposing Ggantija temple complex. 1,000 years older than Stonehenge, it is one of the most important Neolithic treasures of this tiny nation. Another roadside attraction to tempt you in for lunch is “Ta’ Mena”, a cosy spot offering authentic island treats. “Tmun Mgarr” is one of the best places to eat fish and seafood: try the Assaggi platter as a starter – with carpaccio of tuna and monkfish, king prawn tempura, fish fritters and a delicious fish soup served in an espresso cup.

Text: Kiki Baron

Hotels

Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa
De Paule Avenue, San Anton
Malta
Tel.: +356/21 44 03 01
www.corinthia.com

Ta’Cenc & Spa
Triq Ta Cenc, Sannat
Gozo
Tel.: +356/22 19 10 00
www.tacenc.com

Restaurants

Diar Il-Bniet
Main Street, Had-Dingli
Malta
Tel.: +356/27 62 07 27
www.diarilbniet.com

Nenu The Artisan bakery
St Dominic Street 143, Valletta
Malta
Tel.: +356/22 58 15 35
www.nenuthebaker.com

Tal-Petut
20, Triq Pacifiku Scicluna, Birgu
Malta
Tel.: +356/21 89 11 69
www.talpetut.com

Jus Dine & Wine
13, Triq il-kbira, Attard
Malta
Tel.: +356/21 42 46 47
www.facebook.com

T’Anna Mari
28, Xatt is-Sajjieda, Marsaxlokk
Malta
Tel.: +356/27 44 62 11
www.tannamari.com

Ta’Mena
Ta Mena Estate, Rabat Road Xaghra
Gozo
Tel.: +356/21 55 56 99
www.tamena-gozo.com

Tmun Mgarr
Martinu Garces Street, Mgarr
Gozo
Tel.: +356/21 56 62 76
www.tmunmgarr.com